THIS IS PARIS’ BEST KEPT SECRET THAT CALLS ME BACK EVERY YEAR
So has anyone ever told you to “stop and smell the flowers”?
In our fast-paced world, so many wonderful things can pass us by, simply because they may be unknown to us and, in haste, we may not even notice them!
Many of these lovely unknowns exist in Paris too!
Check out the article to find out more about the unknown Paris and watch the video for some French that won’t pass you by!
(This week: the verb PASSER – to pass)
“The passages are a peaceful form of the crowd. It controls itself better there, it stretches out ; it warms itself up by rubbing against the walls. The pace of the pedestrians no longer slows down humbly, winding around the line of cars like ivy on oak trees. They no longer wade through the mud or the elements. The passage shelters them and envelops them in an almost domestic gentleness. It is a street that gathers itself together, or an interior that constantly undoes itself.”
JULES ROMAINS « Puissances de Paris » – 1911
Many feelings try me when I go through a covered passage in Paris.
Some are of joy, happiness, mixed likes and dislikes, but most of all, the strongest feeling I identify is melancholy, a sweet sadness for the past friendships, arguments and make-ups, people who witnessed my life, but who are no longer a part of it.
I guess the sweet melancholy is specific to the French, specific to Paris. The moody streets, a mix of beauty and mud, nobility and historical brothels, pride of the most brilliant culture and reminiscences of the grotesque cliques who knew how to manipulate the course of the history using money and sex.
The beauty of the French culture prevails, the beauty inside and out of people, buildings, streets, nature, and the course of the history – all of these are evident in the covered passages across Paris.
The covered passages are once again a proof of the ingeniousness of the French, who developed in the 18th and 19th century, only during about 60 years, some sixty passages to give to the chatty Parisian a place to mingle, away from the cold winter or the hot sun of August, but comfortable enough to visit their shops, and luxury boutiques, toy shops, performance venues, bookshops and restaurants.
Many are declared Historic Monuments, and about 19 are conveniently grouped on the right bank – which makes it hard to avoid paying them a visit.
Here are a few examples
Around the Madeleine, Galerie de la Madeleine (1845) beautifully decorated in its grey metal, hiding the Restaurant Lucas-Carton with its exceptional Art Nouveau decoration. The almost forgotten Passage Puteaux (1839) also has a glass roof, letting the sun shine through.
Around Palais Royal, passages wonderfully decorated, are in keeping with the Palais’ proud architecture: Véro-Dodat, Galleries Palais Royal, Richelieu, Poitier, Beaujolais, Hulot, Perron, Deux Pavillons, Gallerie Vivienne, Gallerie Colbert. Don’t miss any detail, each one of them is full of personality, and so they should.
Around les Grands Boulevards: Panoramas, Jouffroy, Verdeau. Passage Choiseul has theatre and literature as the two most striking characteristics. Passage Princes is by far my favorite, elegant and impeccable, whispers in my ear, saying to me that yes, we can fall in love with buildings too.
Around les Portes Saint-Denis and Saint-Martin: Bourg l’Abbé, Grand Cerf , Ponceau, Prado, Brady. Passage Caire, open in 1799, is the longest in Paris (370m) and has a ravishing Egyptian theme,
Close to Place de la République, le passage Vendôme – where you’ll find 3 theaters – makes you imagine that it’s easy to spend an entire weekend without actually leaving a passage.
This is my invitation to you to become curious.
Curious about the Passages, the Galleries, and what drove Parisians to build them and fight for their preservation. But for this, you have to be there, to smell the old shops, to read the wrinkled faces with playful eyes, until you feel that you are a part of Paris. That’s when the blood starts to boil and passion raises, and you feel ready to fight for each corner of the city, to help it live a little longer, to pass on its wisdom to its newest citizens (de jure or de facto).
Passage des Panoramas, on flâne avec délice ! by mairiedeparis
NOW IT IS YOUR TURN!
Tell us in the comments below, what is your favorite Parisian corner?
Let me guess.
Do you constantly have the feeling that you can’t hear what the French say and you don’t know how to read all the French words because they are written so much differently than they sound?
Learn 3 secrets that will help you be self sufficient in the way you pronounce French words – even if you don’t know what they mean – so that you can read that sophisticated menu in your favorite French restaurant.
Immerse yourself as you FINALLY reach your dream of becoming bilingual, learn to speak Parisian French on Skype and BREAK your language barrier!
…and now, please SHARE this article with your friends. They’ll love you for it! : )
Always in your corner,
Llyane
Photo credit: A.G. photographe, Wikimedia Commons
Loved your article! Quite a long list though definitely not exhaustive. Interesting spots, really worth the detour.
Paris’ unique culture has made it an amazingly vibant city.
Merci, Fréderic !
I’ll pop on your article to check it out as well – yes, Paris can be very surprising 😉
Ahh, your post makes me miss Paris so very much. I remember experiencing some of these covered passages. I can understand your feeling melancholy though for me they were fascinating and intriguing. My son was recently in Paris for the first time and he says it has been his favorite trip in Europe to date.
Hi, Jul’s, the melancholy in Europe is a very different feeling than in the US. The connotation of the word too. It doesn’t exclude the fascination and intrigue. It includes, though, an almost physical feeling of sweet loss. It feels good 🙂
I am still waiting to come to Paris to discover the beautiful corners. The closest I’ve come to is Vienna and I loved the side streets and open markets, especially in the Christmas time, it was so beautiful. I walked around the streets at night and I was in love with it!
Hi, Reena, it sounds like you really have to come to Paris! 🙂